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08. Master Technique: BAKING IN A PUMPKIN SHELL

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A whole pumpkin makes an artful serving dish, especially for a harvest time or Halloween party. You may, of course, fill it without cooking it. I am a great believer in fitting a bowl inside the scooped-out pumpkin to hold the food – that way, I never worry about leaks (or worse!).

Wash and dry the shell, cut a wide lid from the top, and scoop out the seeds and stringy fibers.  Fill small, uncooked pumpkins with fruit or vegetable salad, cold soup, chip dip, or ice cream. They also make attractive flower containers (line the scooped-out shell with soaked oasis – or florists’ foam). You might use a medium-to large-pumpkin as a punch bowl – this is a case where I strongly advise a hidden bowl inside.

If you want to bake food in the shell, the prevailing wisdom is to cook it partially first, then add the food, then complete cooking. Now, we have a dessert recipe on site, in which a custard is baked, along with the pumpkin that contains it, in one step, however, the more common technique is this one, to wit: A cooked shell makes an attractive bowl for serving hot soups, stews, casseroles, or other prepared foods.

To use a hollowed shell for warm food, brush the flesh with a little vegetable oil and sprinkle it with salt and pepper. Place the shell on a baking sheet, with the lid beside it, and bake it at 375 degrees until the flesh is tender, which takes about 20 minutes for a 6-pound pumpkin.  Check once or twice for accumulated juice inside the pumpkin, removing it with a turkey baster or large spoon.

When the flesh is just fork-tender, fill the shell with prepared cooked food.  Replace the lid and bake the pumpkin 20 minutes more, or until the meat is fully soft.  Bring the whole shell to the table and scoop out a little cooked pumpkin with each serving. If you leave the lid on, food will stay warm in the shell for about 20 minutes.

Cooked miniature pumpkins make cute containers for individual servings.  Fill them with cranberry sauce, rice or bread stuffing, or pie filling.  If you wish, bake the stuffing or pie filling right in the shell.

Here is recipe that provides a tasty example of baking a stew in a pumpkin (in this case, two pumpkins). Of course, any stew recipe will work.

 

                                         

BEEF AND VEAL STEW BAKED IN PUMPKINS

This Argentinian shredded meat stew, called a carbonada, is flavored with scallions and pancetta and is served in large pumpkins.  In season, the author adds peaches to the mix – dried apricots might be used as an alternative.  If you can’t find pumpkins, acorn squash are a fine alternative, and the technique for those is included in the recipe. If you can’t find corn on the cob, use frozen or canned corn kernels, and/or add cubed sweet potatoes and white potatoes to the stew.


07. SALTED CARAMEL PUMPKIN COOKIES

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Here is a recipe for what appear to be tasty, soft pumpkin cookies, studded with chocolate chips and filled with a salted caramel center. It came to our Food News office from our listener, Don (of Dueling Bubbas fame) who commented, “The flavor combos look very good; would think this cookie would rock Halloween, Thanksgiving and just a good ol’ plain Tuesday” – and I agree. Some short cuts are taken with ingredients (pumpkin pie spice, Rolo caramel candies) but that makes this recipe especially easy and fun! I believe that the recipe originated at tastykitchen.com. COOK’S NOTE: The dough is best made a day ahead of baking.

06. POPCORN JACK O’LANTERNS

05. CANDIED APPLES

04: FOR HALLOWEEN: DEVILS EYEBALLS and CHOCOLATE MARSHMALLOW SPIDERS

03. HALLOWEEN “WORMS”

02. HALLOWEEN BRAIN MOLD

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We had quite a discussion about exactly how to make a “brain mold” – what should be the texture, color, etc.? Our listener Dick wrote, “I heard your discussion with a listener about the brain mold, and it made me think of a recipe I had made in the past – which was enclosed with a blender I purchased years ago.  While this recipe is sweet rather than savory, as the gentleman seemed to favor, the finished product has light orange, foamy, opaque texture.  The addition of a drop or two of blue coloring should yield a delightful gray-matter brain color.”

 

You can easily find molds of brains (as well as faces, hands, aliens and who-knows-what-all on line. Simply Google the words “brain mold” – and the molds are sold with Halloween decorations all over town.

01. DRAGON’S BLOOD PUNCH – WITH ICE-MOLDED HAND


*PUMPKIN CARVING TIPS

07. CRANBERRIES!

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Cranberry Chutney, Cranberry Glaze for Turkey, Cranberry Relish, Amaretto Cranberry Sauce, Jellied Cranberry Sauce and Baked Brandied Cranberries
 This is our best collection of cranberry recipes. Included here is a cranberry glaze for turkey, which can double as a silky sauce, an uncooked cranberry relish made with tangerines, a cranberry chutney, and three traditional cranberry sauces (three types: stovetop-made whole berry, baked and jellied) along with assorted options and variations. From all of this you should be able to find the cranberry accent that just fits your taste!

06. GIBLET GRAVY

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This can be a light but creamy sauce, or a thicker, hearty gravy, depending on how you choose to finish it. [See* below.] In either case, it will have a full, rich flavor. One of the best things about this gravy is that it can be made ahead (up to the finishing point, if you plan to add the pan drippings) and frozen. That takes off a lot of last-minute pressure on serving day!

05. ROLLED TURKEY ROAST WITH VEGETABLE GARDEN STUFFING

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We’ve had a great deal of discussion recently about stuffed (boned) turkey breasts, rolled up and roasted in a long :”sausage” shape.. Some recipe authors call the dish a “roulade,” some simply say it’s a “stuffed breast” or a “roll.” In the French kitchen, turkey breasts are often stuffed with a ”forcemeat” or sort of meat-mousse filling, made from turkey, or from turkey and sausage or other ground combination of meats, studded with ham and pistachios. The roasted result is called a “galantine” – when served cold, glazed in a light aspic, it is called a “ballotine.” * (These two dishes do not normally contain any sort of bread stuffing, just the forcemeat.) I notice a Cajun recipe that simply stuffs the breasts with andouille sausage (you’d need about one pound of sausage) and chopped fresh herbs.

 

*Sometimes, an entire boned bird is stuffed, and these French terms origianlly referred to that elaborate method of preparation.

 

In any event, I promised a sort of general-concept recipe, and this is the one I chose. It tells how to bone the breast, if you don’t have your butcher do that for you, and offers the technique for stuffing and rolling – and, of course, the techniques for browning, roasting and serving. I have added a few notes and alternative approaches so that the recipe is a basic one – allowing for the cook to use any stuffing, and any tying technique that the cook might prefer.

 

A whole turkey breast, boned and stuffed with whatever makes you happy, is a luxurious, elegant way to feed a crowd. The author, Rick Rogers, tells us that the inspiration for this recipe, with a fresh-tasting filling of zucchini, mushrooms, and sweet red peppers, comes from Simone “Simca” Beck, the divine French cooking authority, and a friend and writing partner of Julia Child.. Served warm with its sublime brown sauce, it is a spectacular dinner party entrée. For Thanksgiving, it makes a very attractive and easy-to-slice presentation. As I say, adapt it to the stuffing of your choice.

04. SMOKE-ROASTED TURKEY

03. CAJUN FRIED TURKEY

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(*Please Note that Cajun Seasoning is Optional – recipe includes technique for no spicy addition)

02b. DRY-SALTED ROAST TURKEY

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This is more a technique than a recipe. It makes a bird that has concentrated turkey flavor and fine, firm flesh and that is delicious as it is – but you can add other flavors as you wish. Minced rosemary would be a nice finishing addition. Or brush the bird lightly with butter before roasting.

At the L.A. Times, they held a comparative tasting among four turkeys: brined, steam-roasted, high heat roasted and dry salted. The winner was this one, dry salted – originally a technique from Judy Rogers of the Zuni Café in San Francisco. [A close second was the brined bird, which also had the best-browned result, but was not quite so firm in texture.]

This technique is similar to brining, except that no water or other liquid is used. The turkey is just sprinkled with salt and allowed to stand for about 4 days. Within a couple of tries, Russ Parson and the Times’ tasting panel had perfected the amount of salt required and agreed that this turkey had the winning firm, meaty texture and deep, full flavor.


02a. BRINE: ALTERNATIVE BRINES

02. BRINE: ULTIMATE BRINE FOR TURKEY

01. TURKEY BASICS

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Here is the bottom line for everything you need to know about preparing that turkey! How much to buy, how to defrost, how much time to allow, and the basic methods for brining, oven-roasting, and cooking on covered barbeque grills (gas and charcoal) are all outlined below. Using these techniques, you can design your own flavor combinations and perfect your personal technique to produce your “one-of-a-kind” magnificent result.

CREAMY TRIPLE MUSHROOM SOUP

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This combination of fresh white and baby portobello mushrooms, along with dehydrated (dried) shiitakes, is sure to please. Reducing the water used to soak the dried shiitakes down to 1/2 cup and then using that liquid in the soup adds a more intense mushroom flavor to this soup. One could use all shiitake or other exotic mushrooms, but this combination is more economical, and still has a wonderful, deep flavor.

COUNTRY-STYLE BEEF AND VEGETABLE SOUP

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There are two levels of richness to be achieved in this soup. First the meat, soup bones and a mirepoix of vegetables (carrots, onions, celery, etc.) are cooked together to make a rich stock. The meat is set aside, the stock strained and the soup bones and cooked vegetables discarded. This takes some time – required slow simmering to extract all the flavor from the ingredients, but it can be done a day or more in advance. Then, a new harvest of vegetables is added to the rich, vegetable-flavored stock and cooked for a relatively brief period to retain their crispness.

The meat is either sliced and served as a separate dish, or cut into bit-size pieces and left in the soup. There is nothing inviolate about the list of vegetables. The season and weather will dictate which fresh vegetables will be included. The freezer, of course, has greatly extended the vegetable season, nevertheless, it is more economical (and more timely) to shop for vegetables in season when the low price reflects their abundance. This recipe calls for a great number of vegetables but an excellent soup can be made with only half that number. Certainly do not include any that you do not particularly care for.

This is the soup my Mother often made – cutting up the cooked meat to serve in the soup. The bones and meat give it a depth of flavor and heartiness that make it a perfect one-dish meal. For that reason, I think it is absolutely worth it to make the stock first, instead of using a canned or frozen stock – besides, that’s how you get the meat for the soup! I have been known to brown the bones in the oven (after blanching them) before making the stock, for an even deeper flavor.

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