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CORN, POTATO, AND BACON CHOWDER

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This recipe is adapted from Marian Burros wonderful recipe in the book credited below. She says that, if you like this, you can thank Madeleine Kamman, the brilliant French cooking teacher. She came for lunch to Ms. Burros’ house in Vermont during the summer of 2002 and liked the chowder so much that she said it should definitely be in the book. This soup is hearty but it “says summer” at the same time; it is perfect for those early fall days and nights when the corn is still sweet but there is a chill in the air. It’s the smokiness from the bacon, the sweetness of the fresh corn, the touch of heat from the cayenne, and the herbaceous flavor from the thyme that set this soup apart. The cream doesn’t hurt either. Of course, when there is no corn in the markets, you can substitute canned or frozen kernels – it won’t really be summer, but it will remind you, and it is soothing in wintertime.

COOK’S NOTE, November, 2008: At Bristol Farms, they tell me that corn on the cob – while available – does not have much flavor this fall (the season is really over). They suggest the bi-colored packaged corn, avaialble on the shelf above the corn on the cob, for superior flavor.


CHEDDAR CHEESE SOUP

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Regularly, I receive requests for a cheese soup recipe – usually cheddar – because everyone seems to love it, especially when the weather is cold and blustery. In the book called “Comfort Foods” (by Food Network star, Rachel Ray, Lake Isle Press), I came upon this easy and excellent recipe, so thought to post it, once and for all. The author suggests that a BLT (bacon, lettuce and tomato) sandwich makes a great partner to this soup – and I agree! I have added a few comments and edits to the original recipe for added clarity, and because careful handling of the cheese is so important to a smooth result. As always, remember that the better the cheese, the better the result will be.

CARROT SOUP WITH CHÈVRE

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Here’s an easy and quick carrot soup that’s also complex enough to serve to your most discerning guests. In this version, sweet young carrots are paired with slightly salty goat cheese and tangy buttermilk to produce an exciting blend of flavors.

BEEF AND BARLEY SOUP

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Why this recipe works:  To build a flavorful base for this simple but comforting soup in a slow cooker, the folks at America’s Test Kitchen (associated with Cook’s Illustrated magazine) said that they needed to get out a skillet to sauté a hefty amount of onions with tomato paste and thyme and then deglaze the pan with wine, scraping up the flavorful brown bits left behind. 

 

This simple step made a world of difference in the soup’s flavor and allowed them to skip the tedious process of browning the meat.  To further simplify things they used trimmed beef blade steak, which they shredded after it had become meltingly tender in the slow cooker – no need to cut the meat into pieces to start. You may chose, of course, to use another cut, if you prefer.

 

A mix of equal parts beef and chicken broth balanced this soup perfectly and, as with all of their slow cooker beef soups and stews, soy sauce added a surprising amount of (“umami”) flavor. 

 

Since pearl barley [see Cook’s Note following the recipe] can absorb two to three times its volume of cooking liquid, they noted that they needed to be judicious in the quantity they added to the soup.  A modest 1/4 cup was all that was needed to lend a pleasing velvety texture without overfilling the slow cooker with swollen grains.

*ISRAELI JELLY DOUGHNUTS FOR CHANUKAH

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The word sufganiya, a modern Hebrew word, comes from the Greek sufgan, meaning “puffed and fried.” Every bakery in Jerusalem, no matter the ethnic origin of the baker, makes these jelly doughnuts for Chanukah. They used to consist of two rounds of dough sandwiching some jam, and the jam always ran out during the frying. Today, with new injectors on the market, balls of dough can be deep-fried first and then injected with jam before being rolled in sugar. This is a much easier, quicker way of doing them. And no jam escapes.

*CURRIED SWEET POTATO LATKES

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The New Prospect Café, a health-oriented restaurant and catering company in Park Slope, Brooklyn, includes these curried sweet potato fritters on their Hanukkah menu. Add some fresh grated ginger to the pancakes for an Asian touch. Sweet potatoes need the flour to give the pancakes body.

**CRISPY TRADITIONAL POTATO PANCAKES

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Well-respected food writer Joan Nathan tells the story of her preference for this traditional Hanukkah dish: “Ever since I visited a tiny French village in the Ardeche where I tasted a ‘craque,’ an extraordinary, crisp, thin potato pancake as large as a plate, I have changed my view of the taste of potato pancakes. For me they should be thin and crisp. This is only possible if you squeeze out as much water as possible from the grated potato, omit flour or matzo meal as fillers, and gently flatten the pancakes on a very hot skillet. P.S. – Although the taste of hand-grated potato latkes is superior to that of those grated in the food processor, the difference is definitely marginal. So don’t feel guilty if you don’t want to use elbow grease and cut your fingers.”These are her favorite potato latkes – and the note following the recipe provides the tip for making them the “old fashioned” way, as well.

07b. POPOVERS AND YORKSHIRE PUDDING

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Seems like lots of you are planning on Prime Rib for a holiday dinner this year – and Yorkshire pudding is a delicious and elegant accompaniment. (It’s not really a pudding, of course – more like a puffy baked pancake, served as a bread.) If you don’t have drippings from a prime rib, a very similar batter can be baked into air-filled puffy rolls called “popovers”- with no drippings needed. Popovers are wonderful with any number of dishes – and, in a pinch, can even be made a few hours ahead and gently re-heated, if necessary. We’ll have a” teaching segment” this coming weekend on the best things to know about these simple (but sometimes slightly tricky) favorites. There is NO ONE, in my experience, who doesn’t love them both!


07a. FRESH “PREPARED” HORSERADISH

07. PRIME RIB ROASTED TWO WAYS

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500 DEGREE METHOD

Bring the prime rib roast to room temperature by removing it from the refrigerator, and allowing it to stand in a cool place, wrapped in its butcher-paper wrapping, for one to four hours. (The prime rib may be out of the refrigerator safely for up to four hours – longest time for largest roast). It is brought to cool room temperature so that the roast won’t be ice-cold in the center, and will cook evenly.Preheat the oven (for at least 1/2 hour) to 500 degrees. Note:This method cannot be used in electric ovens as the fans on electric ovens activate automatically once the oven is turned off, which will cool the oven too fast to allow a slow finish to the cooking process.Place the roast in a shallow baking pan, salt and pepper the roast. Stud with garlic clove slivers if desired.Place the roast in the preheated oven and time it – 5 minutes per pound.Turn off the oven. DO NOT OPEN THE OVEN DOOR FOR TWO HOURS.The roast will now be medium rare, and ready to carve (no additional “resting” time is needed).

06. CHRISTMAS GOOSE

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Here is an unusual stuffing in a traditional Charles Dickens-style holiday bird. The tart cranberries and kumquats balance in flavor and texture with the pork sausage and crunchy pistachios. An orange-flavored liqueur blends the flavors all together – it is really a favor festival, and goes best with a wonderful red Burgundy wine. Of course, feel free to use another stuffing (see our Recipe Archives for some choices), or to roast the goose unstuffed, using the same roasting method. Test for doneness (165 degrees) as described at the end of the recipe.

Cook’s Note: A goose is an excellent candidate for brining. Even though the bird has a lot of fat under the skin, the meat can be dry and stringy – brining works wonderfully well to eliminate the problem. See the “Ultimate Brine for Turkey” recipe in our Recipe Archives (menu at left) and follow the same directions. Brine a goose for 12 to 24 hours (overnight is terrific).

05. NUTS!

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Everyone loves roasted, sugared, or spicy nuts – often served warm as friends stop in. (Freshly roasted nuts hold their heat for a surprisingly long time if served in a heavy, pre-warmed dish!) Candied nuts (or glazed nuts) are a little bit more like candy treats, not quite as savory as some others (and delightful as a nibble with a glass of Sherry) –and also just fabulous in salads and other dishes. Here are some fun examples of several kinds – all easy to make – and all perfect for little “gifts from your kitchen” as well!

04. BASIL GRAVLAX WITH BASIL SAUCE

03. MULLED WINE – MULLED CIDER – HOT BUTTERED RUM

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Here are three hot drinks, fragrant and comforting, for cool fall and winter evenings. The mulled wine and cider recipes are for party-size amounts (ladle into small mugs or punch cups from a big pot on the stove or from a crock pot set on “low”) but the hot buttered rum recipe makes one serving, because that’s how you must compose this beverage: one mug at a time – or at least only a few servings at one time. When using (or adding) liquor to these recipes, remember that flavor intensifies upon heating, so a poor-tasting wine, for example, will taste even worse when warm!

02. MAGIC HOLIDAY GROG

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This is my idea of the most delicious hot beverage for the cold weather and holidays. You can keep it in a pot on the back of the stove for ladling out – or use a crock pot to keep it warm. Leave out the alcohol, if you wish. I perfected this recipe years ago when I was a caterer – it’s fragrance fills the house with a delightful, cozy “spirit” – ENJOY!


01. THE EGGNOG COLLECTION

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Here is virtually every possible way to make and serve this rich and festive beverage. There’s a single-serving recipe for making as-needed, a party recipe, a recipe without raw eggs (even though the danger from raw eggs is small in the first two recipes – and made even smaller by the addition of alcohol) and even a method of dressing up store-bought eggnog for a pretty party presentation (also eliminating the danger of raw eggs, since the store-bought eggnog has been Pasteurized). Enjoy!

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